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Find colour code: with Glasurit Color Online. Identify colour codes even more efficiently We have thoroughly overhauled Glasurit Color Online for even more convenience. Mixing formulas in grams or litres, price category, information on the frequency of the variant, all cross-references to the associated colour chips in the Glasurit Color Profi Systems and many more essential details. The database is updated daily and provides mixing formulas for all Glasurit 22, 55, 68 and 90 basecoat lines.
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Find colour code now: Color Online. Please contact our experienced service staff. Here you can find the correct color fast and safely: Color online. The panelbeater obviously cannot follow the exact methods of a production line since they may be dealing with ten different makes of car in ten different colours every day, each requiring only limited areas of paint renewal. The car may be received by the sprayer with perhaps a new door fitted, or with crumpled areas restored as far as possible.
Their first job is to degrease the damaged or renewed areas. Fillers are then applied to bring 'low' patches up to the correct level. When dry, these are sanded down; one or more undercoats are applied followed by further sanding, then two or three finishing coats. Colour Matching, Viscosity and Baking These finishing coats are carefully blended in with the existing paintwork, leaving the appearance of the vehicle as good as new.
- Note on older vehicles.
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This may not sound too difficult, but the professional sprayer has to understand a wide range of materials, appliances and procedures. Some materials react adversely with others, so they must know which are compatible; they must understand colour matching, viscosity and baking, and the handling of their spray guns and other equipment. Many of these procedures can be done by the do-it-yourself car enthusiast - but practice makes perfect, so dont try anything until you have some experience under your belt. Materials Wax and Grease Removers Before any filling or painting is commenced, all metal surfaces must be completely free of oil, wax, grease and other residues.
White spirit is widely used for this purpose, but there are many other specialised solvents and detergents. It is important not to touch a surface once it has been degreased otherwise 'finger grease' from the sweat glands of the skin will cause contamination and may spoil the adhesion of the paint coats. Paint removers: modem products will soften old paintwork of any type in 10 to 15 minutes and if can then be scraped off by hand.
When stripping glass fibre bodies, the stripper must be removed from the surface after this time otherwise it may soften the basic material. Rust Remover This is an acidic preparation that not only removes rust, but also reacts chemically with the metal to prevent further rust formation. After application, any sludge formed around beadings and joints should be washed off with water and dried out with compressed air.
Filling and priming should follow as soon as the surface is dry. Fillers, Sealers and Stoppers These materials are legion; there are hard-setting fillers that can be forced into joints and cured by heat; there are plastic sealers that will flex with parts of the body; there are rubber and resin-based fillers; there are fillers that can be brushed on, others that can be sprayed and others that can be applied by scraper knife. Sanding - Wet and Dry Commonly used grades of 'wet and dry' paper are for the coarsest work, through , and for the undercoats, to grade for the finest finish.
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Except for the coarsest grade, use the paper wet, using long, even strokes, not a circular motion which is almost certain to show through the final coats. Discard the paper before it becomes clogged. Primers There are primers available today to meet every need. Chromated primers for maximum corrosion resistance, self-etching primers, red oxide primers and others for use over rubbed down or 'flatted' paintwork. Always check that the primer used is compatible with the finishing-coat material, otherwise bubbling, streaking or crazing of the final finish may result.
Thinners Most finishes except aerosols require thinning before application. Manufacturer's instructions must be followed implicitly in this respect, both as to the type of thinner used and the quantity required to produce the correct viscosity of the finishing paint. Finishes - Lacquers and Enamels The first automobiles were finished with ordinary oil-bound varnish colours, applied by hand but, from about , nitro-cellulose lacquers, which could be sprayed on, came into general use with the development of mass production. High-bake cellulose enamels were developed about ten years later, and were widely adopted in post-war manufacturing plants.
From about acrylic finishes made their appearance, at first mainly with metallic colours.
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The acrylic resins used in this material are better known under the trade name Perspex Lucite. There are also several synthetic finishes, which do not contain either cellulose or acrylic materials. The main difference between lacquers and enamels is that lacquer dries out as its solvents evaporate, whereas enamels harden by chemical reaction. The drying of both lacquers and enamels can be speeded up by the application of heat and there are 'high-bake' and 'low-bake' examples of each available.
High-bake paints are used on the body shell on the production line. Research in the s developed methods of using safe solvents in what were known as non-aqueous dispersion NAD , acrylics - and better still the elimination of all solvents, with paint being applied electrostatically in the form of a powder which is then heated until it flows into a high-gloss finish.
Colour Matching The professional car-body sprayer must be able to match any standard vehicle colour exactly. Each decade there are over different colours employed by car manufacturers, and it is impossible for the sprayer to stock each one. Fortunately, the leading paint manufacturers have developed a computer controlled paint matching service to facilitate their task.
Under the scheme, the paint manufacturer obtains a panel of each new colour from the car maker and its colour wave lengths are accurately recorded on a chart by a spectrophotometer. As a result, the sprayer need hold a stock of only about 40 standard colours from which they can accurately match any body colour, in any quantity, by reference to a printed guide, which gives the exact weight of each standard colour that is to be mixed.
An accurate balance, therefore, forms an essential part of the scheme. Viscosity The viscosity of the paint at the moment of application is of the utmost importance and it must be known accurately if a satisfactory finish is to result. Viscosity is measured by timing the period taken by a given quantity of the paint to run through a funnel-shaped 'viscosity cup' at a specified ambient temperature.
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Except when applied by aerosol, the manufacturer's specified viscosity figure for the paint must always be attained, by the addition of thinners, before spraying commences. This figure is quoted in seconds, representing the 'run-out' time of the thinned paint through the viscosity cup.
The effects of incorrect viscosity can be recognised as follows: Paint too thin - surface does not cover and paint 'runs' easily. Paint too thick - coverage is very restricted and paint forms 'blobs'. Spray Guns Professional spray guns are operated by compressed air; their purpose is to atomise the paint into a spray and at the same time eject the spray on to the surface being painted.
Account must be taken both of the pressure and the volume of the compressed-air supply.
Gravity feed and suction guns with screwed-on containers are commonly used for small areas, but for larger jobs, pressure-feed guns are used; with these the paint is forced up from a container which may hold as much as 45 gallons. There are numerous types of air caps, fluid tips, fluid needles and spreader valves that can be fitted to the guns in order to cope efficiently with various viscosities, flow rates and spray patterns.
Release the trigger at the end of each pass, otherwise the paint will build up at each end of the stroke and run. If the edges of the sprayed area are masked, start and finish each pass on the masking material. Before starting any job, test spray an area of any smooth surface such as a piece. It is usually more satisfactory to spray a complete panel - the whole of a door for example - rather than a small patch. Small differences in colour or texture are disguised if the sprayed area is taken to a natural join in the body. The correct distance to hold the spray gun from the work is about 8 inches; if held too close, the atomised mist reforms and the paint builds up quickly into a narrow area and runs or sags.
If held too far away, the paint droplets are spread out too much and cannot join together.
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As a result, the undercoat shows through. In addition, if the gun is held. Spray pressure should be set according to the paint manufacturer's recommendations, and may vary between lb per sq in 2.
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After use, if the same colour will be required again soon, it is sufficient to remove and securely cover the reservoir of the gravity or suction-feed gun. To clean a gun, which should be done as soon as spraying is finished, pass thinners through the gun instead of paint. Wipe the exterior with solvent-soaked rag.
For the d-i-y car enthusiast, for whom a 'compressed-air supply is not usually available, the choice lies between the aerosol spray and the electrically operated spray gun. The above notes on the use of the spray gun should be followed where applicable. Brush Painting Although a brush-painted job cannot really compete with a good spray finish, nevertheless circumstances may sometimes favour brush application, for which special quick-drying cellulose undercoats and lacquers are available. Large areas are the most difficult. For example, a roof, where each stretch, as it is painted, must be joined up to the next before the paint gets too dry.
Fast working is therefore called for, with just the right amount on the brush - enough to cover in one pass, but not enough to run. Do not attempt to paint in sunshine, that is, while the metal is hot.